Answers

One that is flexible and open to new ideas and solutions.

One that doesn't second guess every step of the process.

One that doesn't watch over your workers and want to help.

One that doesn't have to be in contact 24/7.

One that shows appreciation for progress and quality.

One that provides baked goods once a week.

I would recommend a nursery that sells locally grow products. You have a much better chance of it surviving if it's grown in local conditions & soil. Who knows where that big boxes got that last train load of plants from!

Verify that all window and door seals/weatherstriping is in good shape.

Check to be sure doors and windows are caulked properly (no gaps, cracks or missing).

If you have an attic access, treat it like door opening and seal properly. If possible, create an insulated cover to go over it in the attic.

Check HVAC ductwork for leaks and seal with foil tape or mastic.

Wrap your hot water heater in a blanket.

Quality craftmanship, good service and low price do not happen very often, if at all. You have to give up something if you don't want to spend much. As Rob said, you don't want to cut corners when it comes to electrical work. Have them trace what devices are on what circuits. Putting in a new panel with the same size breakers (that are overlaoded) isn't going to solve your problem.

Mike made a good point.....were any inspections done? What's the age of this home? Size of home? Size of original service v/s new panel? Was the re-wire part of a heavy-up? If done incorrectly, this can lead many problems.

We have not used this product but are familiar with it. It is NOT a screen type. It's actually similar to Leaf Relief, which is a good product. A number of roofing contractors in our area (MD) use it and have had good sucess.

There isn't any perfect product out there. Thay all have there pros & cons. Do research based on your paticular area, type of weather and trees around house.

If it's paint grade, filling and sanding shouldn't be to hard to do. If it's a stain grade, it should be replaced. repairs on stainable wood always seems to stand out.

Took pictures of what? Where are you at in the construction process? How long ago did you contact them? Please provide as much detail as possible.

We have a client that recently dealt with a similar situation, but it was a racoon. They installed a one-way door, made from galvanized mesh, over the hole. Once the varment was out, the clean-up and repairs could be made. There are liquids that be applied that will keep them away once everything is sealed up.

Sometimes sediment in the pipes, or at a fitting, can dislodge and work its way through. If you can access the water filter, remove it, put a catch basin under and teat at that location. Try emptying the filter (through a strainer) while shaking.

I'm a little late geting to the party, but are there any pictures of what;s going on? I agree with Dennis, but there are many reputable contractors that have great relationships with structural engineers, and can work together to help you. If you don't have someone you normally work with, contact your nearest professional remodleing association (NARI or NAHB) and get a reference.

If you don't want to loose ceiling height, you will need to remove the celing covering to gain access to the floor joist cavities.

A product we've had great sucess with is Roxul (http://www.roxul.com/residential/create+a+quiet+home/which+safe+n+sound).

I know it's not convenient, but you have to be somewhat flexible when it comes to meeting repair companies at your home. It would be easier to have them commit to an early appt. rather than at the end of the day. Other appts can throw the day off. Also keep in mind, if someone comes to your house at 7pm and has already been working for 10-12 hours, they're not going to be at there best. The same is true on weekend. After putting in a 50-60 hour week, you are drained and need to relax and gas back up.

You mentioned this room being over a crawl space. We have found that most spaces are incorrectly conditioned.....or should I say say, not conditioned at all. Insulation is typically installed within the floor joist, leaving the crawlspace open and unconditioned. The foundation walls and ground should have a vapor barrier installed over them and insulation should be installed around the perimeter. You wouldn't do the wall that connects to the main house. You want this space to be treated like an extension of the basement.