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It would be difficult to prescribe a proper floor without specific knowledge of the conditions - how much moisture, and where is it coming from? As well, it is always better to think of most anything in a home as a complete system. By that I mean, proper preparation of the substrate (the concrete) including some manner of vapor / moisture barrier and/or other assembly to mitigate the moisture or its effects.
Additionally, consideration of the space function and/or requirements for use, aesthetics, etc.
There are moisture-resistant / moistureproof flooring materials such as LVT. However, I am always concerned that these non-breathable coverings might trap moisture beneath, and create ideal conditions for mold growth - a problem which may be invisible but harmful.
I know... the concern and prospective solutions may seem simple, but - for the RIGHT answer, no so much. Summarily, there are rarely easy answers to such questions without a more-thorough analysis which can / should really only be done by professional examination of the space. For that, engage a professional designer / archtect and/or a well-educated remodeling professional.
Our business opened in 2011. I have been in the construction industry for over 30 years.
I probably would not recomend it. A laminate floor is a floating floor and the flex, expansion and contraction of both as well as the hollow sound you can have with a laminate may give you undesireable results. Laminates come out very easily and I feel it worth your while to remove the 1st laminate to elimate any future floor structural issues and install the new floor to the manufacturer's specifications.
Tyler,
It sounds like the existing laminate flooring is solid and free from flex. If so, you will have no problem installing the new laminte over the old. You will want to use a sound absorbing pad underneath to avoid a hollow sound as well as potential squeeks between the 2 laminate surfaces. Best of luck!
David Domenichini
D.R. Domenichini Coosntruction
I would try to find out the manufacturer of the product and follow their instructions.
Philip
HDR Remodeling
Berkeley Ca
Start with a washcloth and some rubbing alcohol and gently wipe down where the scratches are. Take a cotton swab and go through each scratch with some rubbing alcohol to make sure they are cleaned out. Purchase a floor repair wax kit from your local hardware store (I recommend Picobello Flooring Repair Kit). Using the putty knife, apply wax to scratches and ensure its all the way inside the cracks. Once you are done, take the flat edge of knife and scrape off any excess wax. Last step just gently wipe repaired areas with a cloth to wipe up any residual wax.
For cleaning the floors, make sure you are using a damp (not soaking) mop with a small ammount of floor cleaner.
Hope that helps!
-Brittany
Ailwood Scratch Cover is a coating that masks dents and scratches. Start with that. Apply per instructions. Comes in three colors. Available at most fine paint stores. Cleaning engineered floors is easy. Just use a mild cleaner and a damp mop.
If you simply want to color them, Old English does a great job. Bona wood floor cleaner is the best out there. Hardware stores should have both.
I seocnd the White vinager method. That is how i clean my own hardwood floors.
We follow the advice of one of our trusted wood flooring subcontractors in Charleston, South Carolina - using a white vinegar solution is the best way to clean beautiful hardwood floors!
Follow these simple steps to keep your hardwood floors clean:
- Vacuum or dry mop the floor to remove any surface dust or dirt
- Fill a bucket with a solution of 1/2 cup of white vinegar to one gallon of warm water
- Immerse a mop into the solution and wring out until it's damp-dry
(**Never use a soaking mop on hardwoods**)
- Mop the floors starting in one corner and go in the direction of the floor boards
- Rinse the mop head frequently and change the solution if the water begins to dirty
I think laminate floors denver is a good option for flooring while their is pets in house.
If basement ceiling is unfinished or has drop ceiling you can usually run 1 1/4" screws from underneath. It is best to have a helper finding the squeaks and try to measure from the outside walls in order to find proper placement of the screws. Top nailing the boards is a temporary fix at best.
Your best bet will be white or red oak. In any kind of wood, I would recomend you to do the finish coat with BONA HIGH TRAFFIC, is the hardest finish yo can put on your floors and is water base.
I have a mother-in-law that has been breeding dogs for many years and she swares by ceramic tile.
Laminate are durable but make the tapping noise from their nails when they walk on them.